Tag Archives: dessert

Recipe: Gram’s Ginger Cookies

One from the archives – something I make nearly every year at this time.  

For the holidays, an old recipe – my grandmother’s. Not quite gingerbread, not quite ginger snaps, these cookies are ultra thin, crisp and addictive. She used to make them out of the bridge-party heart, club, diamond, and spade cookie cutters even at Christmas, but if this mystifies you as it does me, use a traditional gingerbread man cookie cutter.

The molasses give these an especially old-fashioned taste. I’ve seen no evidence of Brer Rabbit molasses around NYC, but other brands will do just as well.  (more…)

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Brooklyn Crab

Dozen Medium Crabs, Brooklyn Crab

In Maryland, you have not had a true taste of summer until you’ve eaten blue crabs coated in Old Bay and served with a pitcher of cold, cheap beer in a shack right on the water. You get to this place by boat (often the fastest way), and spend the better part of an afternoon picking chunks of crab meat out of cracked shells. And yes, it is worth the effort.

Could there be a place like this in New York? (more…)

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The Elm

Interior, the Elm

There’s a certain sort of meal you expect to have in Paris – white tablecloths, foie gras, beautifully plated food and bespoke service – that unfortunately I rarely get to have. During fashion week I am too busy running around taking photos, and at the end of the day I often emerge rain soaked and generally unpresentable for fine dining.  (more…)

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Le Specialita, Milan

Plates, Le Specialita

If you’re in Milan for Milan fashion week, one of the highlights of the trip is always the food. Le Specialità, where the specialty is pizza, was recommended to me by two separate Milanese who live in the Venezia area. (more…)

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Le Philosophe

There aren’t many truly French restaurants in New York, but Le Philosophe is one of them. This isn’t the fussy cafe setting of Hemingway’s Paris, but a pared-down, black and white aesthetic that cross pollinated from one side of the Atlantic to the other and back again. The photographs on the walls may be of French philosophers, but the sleek open kitchen and industrial chic dining room is, as they say in Paris, très Brooklyn(more…)

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Manzanilla

CLOSED

There’s very little in the food department that’s too crazy for New Yorkers. Pigs’ tails, chicken feet, durian ice cream, cronuts: all can be found on a menu near you. So it came as a surprise that a new restaurant by Andalusian chef Dani Garcia, the molecular gastronomy expert credited with inventing the use of liquid nitrogen in cooking, serves Spanish cuisine that errs on the side of caution.  (more…)

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Lafayette

For the last ten years, one man has dominated the French restaurant scene for downtown New Yorkers: Keith McNally. It’s hard to imagine the Meatpacking District without Pastis or SoHo without Balthazaar, two highly stylized restaurants that stole Paris bistro decor and food so effectively that the trend of antiqued mirrors, subway tiles and flea market fixtures has been stolen back by a copycat place in Paris.

But with Pastis closing for nine months in 2014 as a new building is constructed above and longtime chefs Lee Hanson and Riad Nasr leaving McNally’s empire, change is afoot. Now popular local chef Andrew Carmellini (Locanda Verde, the Dutch) is throwing his hat into the ring with the opening of French mega cafe Lafayette. The old Chinatown Brasserie (and Time Cafe/Fez) space has been overhauled with no expense spared, columns covered in glossy Art Deco patterns of inlaid wood, red leather banquettes ringing the raised dining level, walls opened up with huge plate glass windows, copper pans glinting in the saucier and rotisserie station and glassware glimmering above the bar. Baz Luhrman could walk right in and film another scene for the Great Gatsby.  (more…)

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