Tag Archives: seafood

Chefs Club by Food & Wine

Open Kitchen view 2, Chefs Club

There’s something to be said for good bones. Restaurant decor can go a long way in transforming an odd space into a good one – see Claudette, for example – but when you start with something as architecturally impressive as the interior of the Puck Building, you have more leeway in what you can hang on the walls – and put on the menu. It’s an unusual concept to open a restaurant that’s not the vision of any one particular chef or restauranteur but a magazine. Fortunately Chefs Club by Food & Wine Magazine gets a certain gravitas from the surroundings, whereas otherwise it might seem utterly newfangled. (more…)

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Claudette

Exterior, Claudette NYC

So a new French bistro opened in the neighborhood. This wouldn’t be so remarkable if it weren’t for the closing of so many bistros in Greenwich Village and the East Village over the last decade – often to become a TD Bank – but Claudette, started by the guys who brought you perennially popular Rosemary’s, was big news from the start. “It’s right around the corner from your apartment,” my mom said when we dined here on a random Monday night, months after it opened. “You should make it your neighborhood place.”

“We haven’t been able to get in until now!” This was sadly true. (more…)

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Brooklyn Crab

Dozen Medium Crabs, Brooklyn Crab

In Maryland, you have not had a true taste of summer until you’ve eaten blue crabs coated in Old Bay and served with a pitcher of cold, cheap beer in a shack right on the water. You get to this place by boat (often the fastest way), and spend the better part of an afternoon picking chunks of crab meat out of cracked shells. And yes, it is worth the effort.

Could there be a place like this in New York? (more…)

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Peche New Orleans

Fish Print, Peche New Orleans

So what is it like to dine at the best new restaurant in the country? Thanks to our New Orleans in-laws, we paid a visit to Pêche in New Orleans just before it won the James Beard Award. Book your dinner reservation around the same time you book your plane tickets to New Orleans, and you too should have no problem getting into this friendly, democratic but still fabulous institution.  (more…)

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The Elm

Interior, the Elm

There’s a certain sort of meal you expect to have in Paris – white tablecloths, foie gras, beautifully plated food and bespoke service – that unfortunately I rarely get to have. During fashion week I am too busy running around taking photos, and at the end of the day I often emerge rain soaked and generally unpresentable for fine dining.  (more…)

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Narcissa

Back Dining Room, Narcissa

Narcissa is the new restaurant in an odd, L-shaped space that they said couldn’t be saved. When Sam Sifton reviewed the old tenant Faustina here in 2010, he praised Scott Conant’s food but said “no matter the meal, you will eat it uncomfortably…in what is unmistakably an institutional setting.”  (more…)

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Trattoria La Griglia

Grilled Branzino, Trattoria La Griglia

Milan might not be the place that springs to mind when you think of great seafood, but there are some surprisingly good fish restaurants in this city. One of them, and one of the best values, is Trattoria La Griglia on Viale Premuda.

(more…)

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Lafayette

For the last ten years, one man has dominated the French restaurant scene for downtown New Yorkers: Keith McNally. It’s hard to imagine the Meatpacking District without Pastis or SoHo without Balthazaar, two highly stylized restaurants that stole Paris bistro decor and food so effectively that the trend of antiqued mirrors, subway tiles and flea market fixtures has been stolen back by a copycat place in Paris.

But with Pastis closing for nine months in 2014 as a new building is constructed above and longtime chefs Lee Hanson and Riad Nasr leaving McNally’s empire, change is afoot. Now popular local chef Andrew Carmellini (Locanda Verde, the Dutch) is throwing his hat into the ring with the opening of French mega cafe Lafayette. The old Chinatown Brasserie (and Time Cafe/Fez) space has been overhauled with no expense spared, columns covered in glossy Art Deco patterns of inlaid wood, red leather banquettes ringing the raised dining level, walls opened up with huge plate glass windows, copper pans glinting in the saucier and rotisserie station and glassware glimmering above the bar. Baz Luhrman could walk right in and film another scene for the Great Gatsby.  (more…)

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The Marrow

If it’s true that “you are what you eat,” we also are what we grow up eating. Harold Dieterle, the chef behind the Thai restaurant Kin Shop and American restaurant Perilla, has gone back to his roots with the Marrow, with a menu that highlights German offerings from his father’s side, “Familie Dieterle,” and Italian dishes from his mother’s side, “Famiglia Chiarelli.”  (more…)

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Osteria del Corso, Milan

Milan gets a bad rap as an “industrial” city, but it can be beautiful in the springtime, especially when the huge Salone del Mobile fair takes place. And when you’re visiting here, it’s always a good idea to get dining recommendations from a local, as we did from street style photographer Giia of Tonics, who sent us to a little southern Italian spot in the Brera.  (more…)

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Casa Mono

It only took 10 years to get a reservation at Casa Mono.

This little Spanish restaurant has been perpetually jammed since Mario Batali and Andy Nusser opened it on a pretty corner of Gramercy in 2003. Just mention the words “Mario Batali,” and suddenly a line of 20 people will form at the door of any restaurant. Though you can put your name in and wait for a table at Bar Jamon next door, numerous failed experiments to do so led D. and me to hold out for an Open Table reservation in that prime slot between 7 and 9pm, which mysteriously never appeared even weeks ahead of time. In the meantime, Casa Mono inspired a host of other tapas places in the city and a mini Spanish food revolution, as flavors like pimenton and the whole small-plates dining concept spread like a contagion.  (more…)

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Calliope

CLOSED

Falling into the “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” category is Calliope, a new restaurant by Ginevra Iverson and Eric Korsh on a busy corner of Second Avenue in the East Village. The big French cafe-style windows from its predecessor Belcourt are still here, as is the pretty blue trim, whitewashed tin ceiling and glossy wooden bar at the back. But this motto could also apply to the seasonal menu, which intersperses the more challenging dishes (tête de porc, spicy braised tripe) with familiar Italian and French classics, executed with finesse.  (more…)

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Recipe: DIY Maryland Crab Feast

For some non-Marylanders, the task of opening and eating a hardshell crab can be daunting. But for the truly obsessed, eating them is just the beginning. What if you didn’t just steam and eat the crabs yourself, but caught them from the Chesapeake Bay for a DIY crab feast? This weekend we took the boat out with my brother and his wife, an experienced crabbing team, and learned how to catch them.  (more…)

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Reynard

Reynard is the latest farm-to-table-in-a-chichi-setting restaurant to hit the city, this time by Marlow & Sons chef Sean Rembold and his partner Andrew Tarlow. The new spot in the Wythe Hotel in Williamsburg got some flak for being too slick and sceney, but the vibe here feels positively organic compared to the hyper-branded, focus-grouped type of restaurant that seems to be colonizing Manhattan(more…)

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Alison Eighteen

CLOSED

Grilled Octopus with Fregola, Alison Eighteen

Just mentioning that you remember Alison on Dominick marks you as a Diner of a Certain Age. (I am one of them.) In the restaurant’s heyday on Dominick Street in the ’90s, Tribeca had more homeless people than millionaires, and taking a cab down there for dinner was an exotic, perhaps life-threatening adventure. Fast forward to now, when restaurants can only appear mysterious by not listing a phone number, papering over their windows to discourage the B-list or serving dinner in the dark(more…)

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