Tag Archives: pasta

Red Gravy

Exterior, Red Gravy

Saul Bolton’s casual Italian restaurant sits on a stretch of Atlantic Avenue that used to feel desolate not so long ago, when the border between Cobble Hill, Brooklyn Heights and the wilds of Red Hook was home to only a few solitary bars and take-out joints. But now the long-shuttered Long Island Bar has reopened, Colonie set up shop across the street, and Bolton of the Michelin-starred Saul, now relocated to the Brooklyn Museum, opened Red Gravy. In the give-the-people-what-they-want school of thought, he has definitely succeeded, stepping into a vacuum and creating just the sort of approachable neighborhood place the neighborhood never knew it needed until now.  (more…)

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The Elm

Interior, the Elm

There’s a certain sort of meal you expect to have in Paris – white tablecloths, foie gras, beautifully plated food and bespoke service – that unfortunately I rarely get to have. During fashion week I am too busy running around taking photos, and at the end of the day I often emerge rain soaked and generally unpresentable for fine dining.  (more…)

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El Barbapedana, Milan

Pasta Rustica, El Barbapedana Milan

If you’re ever in the Porta Genova area in Milan – after an Armani show and before a showroom visit, say – there’s an excellent place for lunch just up the street. El Barbapedana may not be jam packed with fancy fashion types Instagramming their handbags, but it’s the real deal for classic Milanese fare.  (more…)

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Atrium Dumbo

Of all the neighborhoods in Brooklyn, Dumbo is perhaps the most radically changed since the bad old days of early ’90s New York. Where there once were abandoned factories, artist squats and dark, deserted streets, there’s now a buzz of pedestrian activity, luxury condos and even a fancy florist taking up two storefronts. Atrium Dumbo is a sign of the times, bringing artisanal food and $13 cocktails to a once forlorn area right by the river.  (more…)

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Quality Italian

Returning to New York after a long trip can be a shock to the system, like stepping out of a perfectly ordinary afternoon and into a Baz Luhrmann movie. It’s the world as you know it, but bigger, louder, shinier, like an advertisement come to life.

Quality Italian is not just an Italian restaurant, it’s a very New York Italian restaurant, with a brashness that can wow you in small amounts or turn you off in excess. It’s helmed by Michael Stillman of Quality Meats, who opened this Italian spin-off in a bi-level space smack dab in the land of big business: 57th and 6th, home base for many financial firms, talent agencies and luxury brand headquarters. Many of these banking and business power players are already in the house, probably drawn to an upstairs dining room that’s hidden to any tourists ambling by on the street, where only the small downstairs wine and espresso bar are visible.  (more…)

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The Copycat Chef: Orecchiette with Broccoli Rabe and Sausage

This weekend, the Mignorelli stall at the Union Square Greenmarket featured a sign that read:

Winter Over
Broccoli Rabe $3.50

I don’t know if that’s really the particular variety of broccoli rabe, but thank God this long New York winter is over. It’s time to get cooking with one of the first non-root-vegetable vegetables to finally make an appearance at the markets. One dish we’ve seen at a lot of NYC restaurants recently is the Apuglia standard of orecchiette with broccoli rabe and sausage. Though it is often priced at $12 and up on menus, it’s ridiculously easy and inexpensive to make at home. (more…)

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Runner & Stone

A baker from Per Se and Bouchon Bakery sets up shop in a restaurant-and-bakery in the underserved neighborhood of Gowanus, and the first question the table next to us asks at dinner the other night is: What do you have that’s gluten-free?  (more…)

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L’Apicio

It’s hard to believe that Gabe Thompson and Joe Campanale’s new southern Italian restaurant L’Apicio, on the ground floor of a sleek new luxury condo building, is just two doors down from what was once the ultimate dive, Mars Bar (demolished to make room for another luxury condo). Somewhere the ghosts of Mars Bar drunks are spinning in their graves as the new visitors plunk down $13 for a cocktail, but that hasn’t stopped oodles of New Yorkers from descending on L’Apicio. Pretty attracts pretty, and the lofty ceilings, candlelight and rough hewn wood paneling of this restaurant’s interior have drawn a well-heeled crowd – some of whom may happen to live in the luxury condo above.  (more…)

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Antica Pesa

You know Brooklyn dining has really come into its own when a celeb-friendly restaurant touted in Page Six opens not in Manhattan, but in Williamsburg. Antica Pesa, the new Italian spot on Berry Street, already has a loyal fan base in the Travestere neighborhood in Rome, where the original restaurant has been serving up Roman classics like chitarra alla carbonara for generations. Its American sister restaurant is no brightly-lit family trattoria but a modernist boîte filled with well-heeled scenesters. This is Antica Pesa 2.0.  (more…)

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Calliope

CLOSED

Falling into the “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” category is Calliope, a new restaurant by Ginevra Iverson and Eric Korsh on a busy corner of Second Avenue in the East Village. The big French cafe-style windows from its predecessor Belcourt are still here, as is the pretty blue trim, whitewashed tin ceiling and glossy wooden bar at the back. But this motto could also apply to the seasonal menu, which intersperses the more challenging dishes (tête de porc, spicy braised tripe) with familiar Italian and French classics, executed with finesse.  (more…)

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Perla

I usually like Gabe Stulman’s restaurants. Fedora and Jeffrey’s Grocery are great neighborhood places with good, inventive food, even though they could have gotten by on the scene alone. At Perla, Stulman has taken over the old Bellavitae space on tiny Minetta Lane in the West Village (the location of many scenes in Serpico), redone it with the requisite Edison bulb light fixtures, exposed brick, wooden bar and antiqued mirrors and installed chef Michael Toscano, formerly of Babbo, in the open kitchen with an open hearth in back.  (more…)

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Rosemary’s

In any other town – even in other parts of New York City – it would be a sad tale of recession-era urban blight: a decades-old family business burns down, leaving a blackened shell of a building that sits empty for years.

But not here. When Village Paper burned down over a year ago and the owners relocated to 8th Street, several restauranteurs started vying for the burned out shell of a building on a prime West Village corner, only to be rejected by Community Board 2. You’d think the community would be thrilled to be rid of a burned out shell of a building, but no.  (more…)

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