Tag Archives: Brooklyn

Allswell

One of the best things about dining in New York is following the diaspora of kitchen talent from one key restaurant to its contemporaries. April Bloomfield (herself a grad of London’s River Cafe, like Jamie Oliver) has launched several chefs from the seminal gastropub the Spotted Pig, including Nate Smith, formerly of Dean Street and now the proprietor of Allswell in Williamsburg.

Allswell isn’t direct copy, so don’t come here looking for the Spotted Pig II. There are similarities, like the quirky British decor – cutesy mismatched wallpaper (surprisingly feminine for a male-owned pub), exposed wood beams, inexplicable bric a brac, those famously uncomfortable stools, but a bar you could really settle into. The space is populated with patrons who’ve mastered a particular brand of studied cool, like the Spotted Pig before it hit hundreds of guide books. But the menu and the setting feel personal and distinct.  (more…)

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Post Office

A lot of places in the city call themselves restaurants – but because it’s easier for a new establishment to get a full liquor license when there’s food involved, they may just be mega bars with a menu. (Remember Japonais, anyone?) Rarer is the place that calls itself a bar that’s secretly a restaurant.

Sam Glinn is the chef in the lilliputian kitchen of Post Office, a Williamsburg bar dedicated to American whiskey, bourbon and rye, and named after a Bukowski novel. From a corner of the one-room space, done up with dark wood, tin ceilings and memorabilia propped on the shelves, Glinn, formerly of Brooklyn Star and Momofuku Ssam, dishes out a limited but memorable array of reinvented classics.  (more…)

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Mile End

Exterior, Mile End

There are a lot of similarities between Torrisi Italian Specialties and the Brooklyn deli Mile End, and not just because Mile End snagged Aaron Israel from the kitchen at Torrisi. Like the Italian spot, Mile End takes a traditional cuisine and reinvigorates it with fresh ingredients and modern technique. If restaurants of past years specialized in haute barnyard, restaurants like Mile End are leading the way in haute ethnic food.
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Sailor Stripes, Brooklyn Flea Williamsburg

Here’s how guys can work sailor stripes for spring – bold, vibrant and crisp. I also like how the white soles of his sneakers (intentionally?) match the white tires of his Moth bike.

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Two Looks, Brooklyn Flea Williamsburg

The new Brooklyn Flea on the Williamsburg waterfront has attracted a huge crowd with its great shopping, food trucks and beautiful city views. On these women at the first Flea, I loved the denim jumpsuit on the right, especially paired with an orange bag and big bangles. On the left, sailor stripes look even better with a toggle coat.

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Girl in Khakis, Williamsburg

This girl’s look was so cool I don’t even know where to begin. It’s just effortless. I especially liked the button-fly khakis.

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The Commodore

What would you do for a great plate of fried chicken? At the original Pies-N-Thighs in Williamsburg a couple years ago, fried chicken fans had to be willing to wait. The line snaked out the door, and service was glacially slow – think Duane Reade with more piercings and tattoos. But then, perhaps even because it took 30 minutes to get to the front of the line then 10 minutes more to get your food, the chicken seemed breaded with manna from heaven, perfectly seasoned and perfectly crisp. So what if you had to eat it while crouched on a curb next to a trashcan?

Fried Chicken Thighs, The Commodore

If you were willing to endure the old Pies-N-Thighs (the new one is a larger, more restaurant-like place), you may want to try the Commodore, helmed by Stephen Tanner, previously of the chef at Pies-N-Thighs, and also in the kitchen at Diner and Egg. But be forewarned: if you don’t have the stamina of a 21-year-old and a love of crowds, you will end up feeling aged, cantankerous and starving – not unlike Mimi Sheraton cast into the wilds of Brooklyn. (more…)

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Dressler

Feeling overwhelmed by the number of new restaurants opening these days? As New York gets caught up in a vicious cycle of newness – diners relentlessly pursuing the latest trends, chefs quickly moving on from one restaurant to cash in on the next, and dining rooms that feel like pop-up shops – the thing we crave is not the latest It food item, but consistently good cuisine and genuine warmth.

Exterior, Dressler

To be able to return to a place year after year and still find the chef in place and the atmosphere reliably charming is a European dining standard, so it’s no wonder that the Michelin guide reviewers have taken to Dressler, making it one of three places in Brooklyn to get starred. But it’s also a reminder that more New York restaurants used to be this way too until we got so incurably faddish. The turn-of-the-last-century craftsmanship of the metalwork in Dressler’s Viennese-style bar and dining room – exquisite latticework over panels of light and ornate chandeliers, both made by artisan sculptors in Brooklyn – indicates that this place was never intended to be some flash in the pan. (more…)

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Strong Place

You wouldn’t think Court Street would need another bar – until the right one opens, and it feels like it should have been there all along. The latest addition to the neighborhood, Strong Place, is a grown-up bar with a staggering 24 beers on tap and 14 more available by the bottle. The vintage industrial interior with its exposed brick walls, wooden bar and science lab stools feels like Brooklyn’s answer to the Otherroom in the West Village.

Ommegang Hennepin on Tap, Strong Place

There’s a spacious restaurant here too, and though we didn’t have time to delve into the entire menu, the deviled eggs served as the perfect bar snack. Creamy and fresh with a kick at the finish, these eggs doubled down on spice with cayenne on top and peppery olive oil underneath.

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Seersucker

Have you ever discovered a new favorite place only to see it splashed all over the New York Times several days later? That’s what happened to us with not one but two places last week. Our only hope is that the Brooklyn location will keep (some of) the masses from swarming them.

Wall of Pickles, Seersucker

Place number one is Seersucker, a refined little Southern restaurant that recently opened on Smith Street in Carroll Gardens. Behind an unassuming exterior with stained glass and plants in the window, the inside has a modern farmhouse feel, with polished exposed brick walls, plain wooden tables, lab stools at the bar and Wilco on the stereo. (more…)

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