Crunchy, soft, spicy, sweet, vinegary, meaty, vegetal: If banh mi is made just right, it’s possible to get all these elements in one bite. The beauty of this Vietnamese sandwich is in the combination of disparate, contrasting ingredients that come together in one delicious whole. But get one part of it wrong, and you’re liable to throw the whole thing off.
Winter may have come early this year, but one reason to celebrate this is the earlier-than-expected enjoyment of noodle soups. Soul-sustaining ramen and hand pulled noodle soups, so neglected in the summer, are what gets us through the dark and dreary months.
In case you have any doubt about the specialty of the new Kuaile Hand Pulled Noodle Restaurant on Forsyth Street in Chinatown, the answer comes as soon as you walk in the door: Everywhere there’s the sound of slurping. The place is bare bones, with a few formica tables and not much in the way of decor, but there are already a good number of customers bent over Kuaile’s hand pulled noodle soup.