Sometimes just getting a meal in Paris can be a titanic battle of wills. Take the steak frites place we tried to go to on a recent night. Though recommended by a seemingly reliable guidebook (plastered on the windows there), it was nearly empty at 9:30. We walked in, walked out to consider our options, then walked back in to give it a chance. “The kitchen is now closed,” the proprietress told us. “We can’t stay open just for you. We are tired.” It was a Friday night, and two in our party had put on five fashion shows in one day. Tired.

On to the next place: Delaville, a newish addition to the slew of Costes restaurants in the city. When we asked for a table in the shabby chic dining room, we were referred to a tall guy who barely paused between waiting on tables, bartending, and managing the staff to tell us that the wait for a table would be at least an hour, though there was no sign of anyone else waiting. We were welcome, however, to eat in the bar, so we settled in there. Our table on the cold, glassed in patio had all the charm of the old Dallas BBQ on 8th Street. Ah, Paris. Continue reading…

By Parisian standards, La Ferrandaise is a very young bistro. Open only a few years, manned by a chef who has yet to see a gray hair on his head, this spot in St. Germain falls into the same traditional category as venerable institutions that have been open a hundred years or more. Yet it hasn’t had any trouble keeping up: it was packed on a recent night, and it won the Lebey award for Best Parisian Bistro in 2006.

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If Maialino is an Italian restaurant that faithfully renders the classics, Faustina is the opposite: It takes Italian cuisine and turns it on its head. Why serve cannelloni the traditional way when you can break it down and reconstruct it as separate layers of pasta, cheese and fresh tomatoes? And the art of crudi here is outsourced to a Japanese chef manning a sort of Italian sushi counter in the dining room. This is what’s happening at Scott Conant’s Faustina right now, and the result is an exciting new take on Italian cuisine.

Bacon-wrapped shellfish are nothing new—until you take prawns ($16), and wrap the tender midsection in the thinnest layer of lardo so that the whole thing dissolves in your mouth. These come on a bed of rosemary lentils. The whole dish is the perfect combination of sea and earth. Continue reading…

Tell someone the address of Almond restaurant, and they’re liable to say: “Wasn’t that Borough/Rocco’s/Caviar and Banana/Commune?” The answer is yes, yes, yes and yes. Walking into the space may also make you experience déjà vu all over again, because interior has many of the same elements of its predecessor Borough – the same tables and chairs, the same posh billiards room  in back, the same rough-hewn wood lining the walls, the same popular bar scene – with a prettified face lift of coral wallpaper and gilt-framed mirrors.

Before you consider the place doomed, know that while this is still El Chod’s space, the owners of the very successful Almond restaurant from the Hamptons are much of the time, making sure things run smoothly. The crowd has gotten a polish too. Gone are those grubby locavores that patronized Borough, now the crowd includes stick-thin women in wrap dresses and big jewelry, men with winter tans and cashmere V-necks. (”They’re not on our team, ladies,” our waitress whispered.) Chelsea Clinton dined there on a recent night. Celebrities, gays, emaciated women, face lifts: Almond is a Hamptons away from the Hamptons, and I mean that in the best possible way. Continue reading…

If the underground sliver of space that houses Bar Henry hits you with a wave of nostalgia when you step through the door, it’s because it used to house Zinc Bar. Once jammed with students and aging bohemians, clogged with smoke and a tangle of jazz band equipment that you had to step over to reach the bathroom door (often while the band was playing), Zinc Bar was a quintessential Greenwich Village live music spot. But before you get too nostalgic, note that Zinc Bar hasn’t died, it just moved around the corner, where you can still hear famed jazz guitarist Ron Affif play on Monday nights.

Meanwhile, Bar Henry benefits from the lingering magic of this space, though both the music and the smoke are gone now. In this incarnation, it’s been spiffed up with a black and white marble floor and red plush seating in the back. Continue reading…

This Louisiana specialty used to be hard to come by, but thanks to the wonders of FedEx and one dedicated Louisiana family, live crawfish are now just a click away. The Louisiana Crawfish Co. ships bags of live crawfish around the country–you can either get it FedExed or pick up your crawdads at the airport. This is essentially how fish mongers are getting them anyway, and Louisiana Crawfish Co.’s prices are about 2.5 times the wholesale value of $2 a pound (scaled for volume, so you might as well buy more)–not bad in non-Southern cities where many fish mongers inflate the price of crawfish to 5 times the wholesale value.

The crawfish season only runs through May, so start planning that crawfish boil now. Here’s how to do it.

Bonus: Louisiana Crawfish Co. also sells turduckens.

Louisiana Crawfish Co. 888-522-7292

Urban Daddy: Live Crawfish from the Louisiana Crawfish Company

Has there ever been a real Maryland-style seafood restaurant in New York? You can find Philly cheese steak, Southern food, Austrian food, Cuban food, even Malaysian food faster than you can find a decent crab cake in this town. And the attempts of New York chefs to appropriate Maryland seafood are often bungled, such as the “crab boil.” As the folks at the Hideaway know, you should never, ever boil the delicate blue crab. They should be steamed.

Choptank, backed by several Maryland natives including food and cocktail consultant (and friend of mine) Kevin Patricio, has boldly gone where no New York restaurant has gone in recent memory: into the wilds of Baltimore, land of “The Wire.” There are Old Bay potato chips on the menu and pictures of tall ships on the walls—just like home, hon. Continue reading…

The Breslin is a restaurant for people who like to eat. That may sound redundant, but given the lengths to which some restaurants go to accommodate picky eaters (an entrée of “steamed vegetables with boiled egg” at one downtown spot comes to mind), the Breslin embraces food with genuine gusto.

Granted, chef April Bloomfield’s British pub fare is extreme cuisine. Bacon-wrapped eggs, stuffed pig’s foot and fried head cheese are all on the menu, should you be craving them. But there’s also sea bass, chicken (aka poussin) and some excellent salads if you’re not a particularly adventurous diner. The menu—and the food—almost seeks to provoke: the “onion and bone marrow soup with parmesan toast” ($10) turns out to be a particularly meaty, velvety riff on French onion soup, with the bone marrow only adding to a beefy flavor that already existed in the original. Tread carefully, but do not be afraid. Continue reading…

There may be no second acts in American lives, but there are in the New York restaurant business. Donatella Arpaia, who opened davidburke & donatella with chef David Burke, then Dona, Anthos and Kefi with chef Michael Psilakis, has moved onto act three with Mia Dona, which she recently reopened as a solo project.

As in the music business, solo albums are tough. You wonder if one star will be able to carry it for the whole team or if the magic will get lost in the switch. But pay attention at Mia Dona and you’ll find not just the old favorites but some interesting new notes as well. Continue reading…

When somebody asks you to recommend a “cool new restaurant,” you’re liable to start ticking off names by neighborhood – usually in the Meatpacking District, West Village, Noho, Williamsburg or someplace with similar caché. But it’s time to radically adjust your thinking, because the new hot neighborhood is… the East 50s.

If anyone could reinvigorate formerly sleepy Turtle Bay, it would be powerhouses like Graydon Carter at Monkey Bar and now Billy Gilroy, of Macao, Employees Only and now East Side Social Club. (Le Relais de L’Entrecote and the newly reopened Mia Dona are other noteworthy additions to the neighborhood.) Though restauranteurs have come and gone since Gilroy first opened Page-Six favorite Match in the ‘90s, he still has a following, and the boldfaced names have followed him here. Continue reading…