Milan Fashion Week
Among the many big question marks hanging over the fashion industry, which has been devastated by the closure of retail stores, order cancellations, layoffs and supply chain disruptions, not to mention actual Coronavirus cases among those in the industry, is the mystery of what we will all be wearing when infections subside and we finally emerge from our homes. An entire season of the fashion calendar, vanished. Will we pick up where we left off? Will we start again in a totally different place? And how will trends emerge without the visual cues we pick up from each other on the street?
There is a lot to be gleaned about what people are wearing from Instagram, Tik Tok and video conferencing. One thing’s for sure: an interesting print certainly stands out on Google hangouts, even if you only dress the top half of your body. Zebra was the print of the moment by the end of this fashion month, hedging out leopard for spring. File under: things that might have been trends. (more…)
Fourteen days and what seems like a lifetime ago, Milan Fashion Week was the most enjoyable fashion week I attended this year. The weather was beautiful – sunny and 60 degrees – the clothes were cheerful pops of color, almost everyone was in a good mood, and the living was easy. It wasn’t until the last day that coronavirus started to affect the city. Milan, we are wishing you a return to la dolce vita very soon.
One important fashion takeaway from Milan fashion week: saturated color. This is one of the things Italy has always done best. Again we are seeing monochromatic dressing here, but revved up for spring. Think of it as superhero outfits, separates in the same bright color from head to toe, often a pantsuit. Interestingly, we did not see a lot of prints except as an accent, which is certainly a change from the wild mishmash of Prada and Gucci prints quite recently. And the pastels of yesteryear look washed out by comparison. (more…)
This is a series I’m doing on what it’s like to be outside the shows at fashion week. Traditionally, when a designer does not want to release the address of a fashion show to the public, they list “VOIR INVITATION” (or “SEE INVITATION” for the New York/London shows) on the official fashion week schedule online. Nevertheless, hundreds of people often show up, especially for brands that have achieved cult status. This series is about the uninvited and the invited and the interaction between the two.
In Milan, many brands listed fashion show locations publicly. At one show, house photographers flew drones overhead to capture scenes of the massive crowd outside. (more…)
There is a new star on the Milan fashion week scene: Pepper! J.J. Martin’s pug puppy was sadly denied entrance to the Philosophy show yesterday. VOIR INVITATION, Piper! Despite looking somewhat dejected in this photo, she quickly perked up and started licking faces, including Hamish Bowles’.
Pretty sure that model Bella Hadid made this girl’s day when she posed for a selfie right after this shot was taken. Coveralls and workwear are a thing now. I like how Bella mixed hers with a (faux?) fur hat and luxe shades to glam it up.
This was one of many logo’d bags seen this Fashion Month, and a new interpretation of the Valentino logo as conceived by the “kids” on Pierpaolo Piccioli’s design team. Look out for logo mania to take hold…
After the Dries Van Noten show, model Sara Blomqvist dashed out while still in runway makeup and picked up a little something: her son Beau. We photographers especially love the Dries show because he brings back his favorite model muses year after year.
Erica Pelosini and J.J. Martin wore matching prints from J.J.’s fashion line La Double J to the Marni show. The looks are part of a welcome trend to replicate vintage prints with modern materials, so there’s no more sweating away in thick polyester just so you can wear something cool and retro. For La Double J., Martin goes through troves of prints in an Italian archive, then licenses and reproduces them in Italy with eye-catching results.
Maybe it’s in the genes, but Kaia Gerber is already showing off some great personal style outside the shows. She exited the Prada show in leopard pants with mules and a vintage Metallica tee in Milan. Casual but chic.
We saw so much of this ribbed Calvin Klein sweater with cut-outs at the shoulder during fashion month. Carlotta Oddi wore hers with a paneled maxi skirt and boots. Cut-outs at the shoulder are still on-trend in knits and silk tops, although with a hard, straight line like a tank top, not the scooped out shoulder that has been done ad infinitum.
Sofa prints! Who knew they could be so chic? But they’re popping up everywhere, especially on lightweight floral coats for fall. Pair it with a velvet top and you’ve got a Victorian vibe going.