Ann Demeulemeester

Ann Demeulemeester’s modern goth aesthetic is often described as edgy and avant garde; the same description could also be applied to her fans. On the runway, the long, lean, black silhouettes of her fall 2010 collection were broken up by flashes of red patent leather detailing. Outside in the courtyard of the Couvent des Cordeliers, black, minimalist clothing was favored by many of the guests, too.

She has this androgynous petit gamin look that’s just fascinating. A good example of how the guests can really bring a designer’s vision to life at a fashion show.

A big-shouldered fur and combat-boot heels mix uptown and downtown sensibilities.

Carine Roitfeld in a belted trench and Victorian style lace up boots.

Hedging one’s bets on a cold spring day: a poufy white cotton skirt paired with warm black tights.

Long, draped knit layers create a sculptural effect.

The tough look of black leather jeans.

Michael Roberts of Vanity Fair.

Loving this nudish-pink color for spring. A great spring coat.

The cool ’70s retro glasses frames really make the outfit.

Maximalist fashion in the form of a big fur jacket, studded shoes and a captain’s hat.The beautiful red rosette clutch gives the whole look a pop of color.

More ’70s retro glasses frames. Though many designers are now putting out frames like these, this is one trend that really came up from the street, started by 20-somethings in places like Williamsburg and its European equivalents. It really picked up some speed when American Apparel began selling inexpensive vintage frames a year or so ago.

A minimalist silhouette with maximalist hair.

Lynn Yaeger and Sarah Rutson.

Layers of neutral gray, black and white. Notice: gray socks. More on those later.

Kate Lanphear in an oversize poncho with fur trim.

Bright eastern colors of saffon yellow and washed pink add zing to an otherwise all black outfit.

Obsessed with her pink color rinse hair.

How do you know when the show has started? The massive doors to the old convent shut tight, and outside the publicists (from Michele Montagne) have a cigarette and wait.

A beautifully executed top knot. She has taken the loose bits of hair and pinned them around the sides.

Mixing neutrals with black: a putty-colored Hermes bag and pale fur stole.

More platform wedges, this time with goth-y black velvet and buckles.

Model Tanya Dziahileva in a patchwork fur vest and black over-the-knee boots. While I have not seen a lot of over-the-knee boots on the street (though they were supposed to be the It shoe of fall/winter 2009), they are – not surprisingly – very popular with models. A fabulous look when you have legs up to here.

Another model off duty in a midnight blue belted coat and lace-up boots.

A spiky version of the updo – a model still in her hair from the show.

Ann Demeulemeester’s ultra-tough sensibility really is in tune with what models wear off duty. Though they may be modeling super feminine, frilly dresses at many of the French shows, afterwards many of them immediately change into something bad ass. Here a black fur shrug softens the silhouette of a leather motorcycle jacket.

More all black with touches of fur and over-the-knee boots: there’s a pattern emerging.

The danger of a black wool coat is that it can be boring, unless it has cool sculptural elements like this one, worn with motorcycle boots.

corrections amended