A Voce Columbus

You can’t really judge a restaurant from its opening night, because subsequent meals may vary wildly. But if the first night at A Voce Columbus, the uptown sister of A Voce on Madison Square, was any indication, this is an important debut for the New York restaurant scene. The old Cafe Gray space has been blown out so you can see the amazing view of Columbus Circle as soon as you walk in the door. While Cafe Gray had its plusses, the mushroom risotto among them, the glitzy, gold-toned Trump-esque decor started to feel very Dow-14,000 by the time of its demise. In its A Voce incarnation, this kitted out mall space feels much more expansive – even cool – due to the long, roomy bar and open dining room.

Chef Missy Robbins, who came to New York from Chicago’s Spiaggia (one of the Obamas’ faves), focuses on fresh seasonal herbs and vegetables, specialty ingredients, excellent cheeses and salumi. A pictoral tour, after the jump.

The first preview of cheeses and herbs to come: a ricotta spread with green onion.

This isn’t a caprese salad but stracciatella, made with arugula instead of basil. It’s one of several occasions where she switches out a more bitter, interesting green for basil.

This is: One. Piece. Of. Bacon. Pork belly to exact, yet not too fatty, either because it’s pancetta or because of a technique that rendered most of the fat. Love the figs appearing everywhere now.

My favorite dish – and also Gael Greene’s, according to her Twitter feed – is this ricotta gnocchi with zucchini, squash blossoms, mint and bottarga ($23).

Another mutual fave: escarole with warm pancetta vinaigrette, soft boiled egg and pecorino romano ($10).

High Maintenance orders pasta with tomatoes nearly everywhere, and this one stacked up to the rest. The version at A Voce Columbus is made with heirloom tomatoes, toasted garlic and basil, served on homey pasta “rags” ($17).

Creamy buckwheat polenta is decadent when made with marscapone ($7), a technique I used to employ but forgot about. Thanks for the reminder, Chef Robbins!

The verdure get special attention here. Super fresh “summer shelling beans” are dressed in a slightly bitter rapini pesto dotted with pine nuts and parmesan ($6).

This pork chop with roasted abalone mushrooms ($29) is massive. Here’s a dissected view, below.

If chops are not enough, lamb also comes serves as lamb sausage alongside and a nice addition of stewed lentils.

The view of Columbus Circle.

The view of the kitchen.

If things continue in this vein, downtowners may have to start going north of 57th Street – and not just for Barneys or Bergdorf Goodman anymore.

A Voce Columbus
10 Columbus Circle
New York, NY
212-823-2523
avocerestaurant.com